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Messages - ZX2Fast

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Drag Racing / Re: 14.3 at 101 mph
« on: September 20, 2009, 10:43:21 AM »
I'm going back October 14th.  The only tires I have are Dunlop touring tires so that 60' won't get any better.

Drag Racing / 14.3 at 101 mph
« on: September 19, 2009, 12:38:46 AM »
My new best time.  This is with a 2.4 sixty foot.  The next time I go the wife is going so I'll have video.  I also wondered why it took a full 2 seconds to make full boost between shifts.  I tore the turbo apart a few days later to find the exhasut housing cracked all the way through and the weld on the #1 primary cracked.  All of that is fixed now and I have a TO4E turbo in the car.  If I can fix this boost creep we'll see if this wore out Escort can run 13's.

Misc / Re: ZX2 in March issue of HCI
« on: December 22, 2008, 06:52:46 AM »
Quote from: "ZXTUNERINNY"
I have a Gude kit , it fits just fine , its all you idiots out there not using the proper tuning . You need SCT or Sniper tuning to take out all the timing and reconfigure the mapping of your computer . Dont knock something till you try it . I have a full stage 2 gude kit , all 2" piping and full 2.5 inch exhaust . In order to have a good build up of pressure and have no turbo lag , the piping must be small , as well as the turbo , my wastgate will not open till its at 13lbs, and my BOV is set at 7lbs ,and my boost controller is set at 13lbs so there is absolutely no hesitation . So go ahead and talk bad about Gude , where's your turbo kit ?

I know this is really old.  But, how do you set a BOV to 7 pounds?  The problem with the Gude kit is that Bill Gude says it works just fine as-is.  That it doesn't need a BOV and that there are no wastegate issues.  His fix for the boost creep is some kind of software instead of just fixing the physical issue.

Engine/Transmission / Re: Keman Intake Mod
« on: December 22, 2008, 06:44:20 AM »
I'll drop by on occassion.

Suspension / Front Wheel Bearing
« on: December 15, 2008, 04:19:05 PM »
Usually you'll know this part needs to be replaced when your car starts to make a speed related noise that sounds like someone is driving Bigfoot down the road.  It is a low frequency hum and maybe an occasional click like gravel in a dryer.  One way to be certain this is the problem and not an axle or diff issue is to follow this dianostic proceedure:

Do this at your own risk.  The chances of being injured during this test are moderate.  Only attempt this test if you have a stock open differential.  I do not know if this will work if you have a Phantom Grip or LSD installed and you could end up hurting yourself.
a. Put both of the front wheels in the air and support the car with jackstands.  Chock the rear wheels so that the car can't roll forward or backwards.
b. Start the car and put it in 3rd gear (or low for ATX) and let the engine idle move the wheels.
c. Listen for which side the noise is coming from and use some gloves or something that will protect your hands to stop the wheel that the noise is coming from.  This is the reason you need an open differential.  Otherwise it might jump of the stands or injure you when you try to stop the wheel from moving.  If the noise stops, then that is the wheel bearing, if the noise continues, then stop the other wheel.  If the noise still exist then chances are both wheel bearings are shot (not likely) or it is the diff that is making the noise.

This all assumes you have a stock set-up or OEM replacements.  Otherwise, tools needed may vary.


A. Hammer
B. Sockets - 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 32mm all 1/2" drive (32mm socket can be rented at Auto Zone)
C. Pliers
D. 1/2" drive rachet
E. Narrow flat tip screwdriver or small chisel
F. Punch
G. 1/2" drive breaker bar
H. 3" to 4" 1/2" drive extension


A. Wheel bearing, Auto Zone part# 510013 ($30)
B. Axle nut, Auto Zone part# 304985 ($3)
C. Wheel seal, Auto Zone part# 1932-S ($7)
Note, cost are local, cost vary by store location.

Going to work!
1. *If you have an impact gun, or steel rims, you can just remove the wheel and skip the rest of this step.  If you have steel rims, you can get to the axle nut by just removing the hub cap.*  Loosen the lugnuts and jack the car, support it with a jackstand.

From the back of the stock wheel you can knock out the center cap.  

2. Looking at the axle nut, you can see that a bit of the outside of the nut is bent into the groove on the tip of the axle.  This prevents the nut from coming off while moving.  This also prevents you from removing the nut.  Using the narrow screwdriver or chisel, hammer into the front of the groove to unbend this part out of the groove.

3. If you have an impact gun, you can go ahead and remove the nut now.  If you do not have an impact, then you'll have to follow the rest of this step.  Put the wheel back on and secure it with two lug nuts.  You don't have to get them very tight, you aren't going to be driving anywhere.  Jack the car up to remove the jackstand then put the car back on the ground.

Put the car in gear and use your breaker bar, 32mm socket, and cheater bar to remove the axle nut.  I had to actually stand on mine to remove it.  It is torqued down to about 180 ft-lbs.  Be certain your socket sits square on the nut or you'll round it off.

After you get the nut off, jack the car back up, put on the jackstand, then remove the wheel.

4. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end and then loosen the nut (18mm) until it is flush with the end of the stud.  If you have a separator, then use it to get the stud out of the knuckle.  If you don't have one, like me, then use the hammer to get the stud out.  Remove the nut and pull the tie-rod end out of the knuckle.

5. Remove the brake caliper from the knukle.  The caliper bolts are 14mm.  Use some string to hold the calper to the spring or strut out of the way.  You don't want to let it hang by the brake hose.  At this point you can also remove the rotor.

6. Remove the two upper strut bolts.  They are 17mm on both ends.  Remove the nuts and gently try to hammer the bolts out.  If you can't get them out that way, use the breaker bar to turn the bolts inside the strut to break them loose.  Put the nuts back on flush and use your hammer to beat them out.  This prevents you from damaging the threads.  If do somehow damage them, you can buy more bolts.  Once you get the bolts flush with the strut and you can't pull them out, use the punch to hammer them out the rest of the way.

7. Now you should be able to pull the axle out of the knuckle enough to allow you to get to the nut on top of the ball joint.  The ball joint is held in by a nut/bolt and a nut/stud.  They are both 17mm.  You should now be able to take the knuckle off the car.

8. Once you have the knucle out, use a screwdriver to pry the wheel seal out.

If you have a press at home, then great, you should be able to see how to get the old one out and the new one in.  If not, then you'll have to take it to a machice shop to have it done.  Be certain that you install the new wheel seal when you get it back.

Installation is the reverse of removal with the following exceptions:
Use high temperature axle grease on the inside of the splines where the axle goes.  The axle nut gets torqued down between 150-180ft-lbs.  I just jump on the cheater bar until it feels tight.  Be sure to use the punch to stake down the nut into that groove.  Try not to crack the nut where you stake it or it may be able to come loose.  DO NOT re-use the old axle nut unless you really want to see what happens when the axle falls out when you take a turn.

Engine/Transmission / Water Pump
« on: December 15, 2008, 04:13:07 PM »
* Jack and jackstand
* 8 and 10mm box end wrenches
* 8, 10, and 13mm sockets
* 3/8" drive rachet and breaker bar
* Hammer and long screwdriver may be needed
* A prybar may be needed

Getting started

1. Drain the engine coolant.  If you want to reuse the coolant, drain it into a clean container.  There is a small drain cock (yes, that is what it is called) on the lower driver side of the radiator.  Just loosen it and the coolant will come out of the hole.  Take the radiator cap off to make it drain faster.

2. Put the passenger front side of the car on a jackstand and remove the passenger front wheel and plastic underpinning if you still have it on your car.

3. Before you remove the belt, you'll need to loosen the 3 10mm bolts holding the pulley onto the water pump.  The tension in the belt should be enough to hold the pulley in place while you loosen the bolts.  If not, use the breaker bar and 13mm socket to apply more tension while you loosen the bolts.  You can apply more tension by trying to loosen the center bolt on the tensioner pulley.  This will move the tension arm towards the front of the car and put more pressure on the belt.  If you push too hard, you'll end up loosening the tensioner pulley bolt.  That isn't a problem because you can just tighten it back up, but it won't do you any good for removing the water pump pulley bolts.

4. Once you get the three water pump pully bolts loose, use the 13mm socket and 3/8" breaker bar to release tension on the serpentine belt.  You do this by rotating the wrench clockwise as if you were trying to tighten the bolt in the center of the pulley.  It is spring-loaded so once you let go, the tensioner will move towards the front of the car.  Don't get your fingers caught.  Leave the breaker bar on the tensioner.  If you remove it, the tensioner arm will swing up more and might be difficult to get it moved far enough to get the belt back on.  If you are going to replace the belt as well, go ahead and remove it now.  If you don't have a belt diagram handy, draw one before you remove the belt.

5. Remove the 3 water pump pulley bolts.

6. The water pump is held to the pump housing by 4 8mm bolts.  Remove these bolts and try to pull the water pump out.  If you are unable to pull it out, you will have to coax it out by trying to tap it up and down.  I used a long screwdriver and a hammer to tap it from the top and bottom until it was loose enough to pull out by hand.  It fits very tight into the housing so don't hit it too hard or you'll gouge the housing and it'll leak.  Do not pry between the pump and housing mating surface.  This will almost certainly cause a leak.  You may have to pry the engine over a bit to get the pump out.  Insert the prybar between the upper engine mount and the mount brace.  This will move the engine more then enough for the pump to fall out.

7. Once the pump it out, check to see if the rubber seal is intact.  If it doesn't look new, do not reuse it.  If there is deposit build up (may look green, yellow, or white) then you'll need to clean it out of the pump housing or you'll have a leak.  I used a small screwdriver.  Since the housing is aluminum, you'll have to be careful if you scrape it off.  You cannot scrape too hard or you'll gouge it, and you guessed it, it'll leak.

8. Once the housing is clean, install the new gasket onto the new pump.  Don't roll the gasket onto the pump or it
may leak since it isn't sitting flat.  The pump will only go in the right way.  The bolt holes are offset.  The small freeze plug in the pump will face down.  Thread the bolts in by hand.  From there you'll want to tighten the bolts up evenly and in a crosswise pattern.  I can't find a torque rating for these bolts.  The only ratings listed are for the pulley bolts and not the pump bolts.  The best I can guess is about 8-10 ft-lbs or about as tight as you get spark plugs.  Not very tight, just firm.

9. Put the pulley on and get the 3 bolts in finger tight.  Put the serpentine belt on and tighten up the water pump
pulley bolts.  Get them as tight as you can.  The pulley will slip in the belt so you can't over tighten them.

10. Make sure the drain cock is closed and fill the radiator.  Leave the cap off, start the car, and turn the heat wide open on vent.  Once the car warms up to operating temperature the coolant level in the radiator should drop.  Add coolant as the level drops.  Be careful, it can splash back as air is pushed out.  When the heat blows hot and the temperature hand is on normal, it should be full.  Just let it run this way a few more minites to make sure.  Shut the engine off and put the radiator cap back on.  Now you are done.

Note: If you have to add water, only use distilled water.  Tap water is a bad idea.  You can see from the last picture that there was a lot of deposit build-up in my pump housing.  I've only ever used distilled water.  Imagine what it would be like if I had ever put tap water in this cooling system.

Engine/Transmission / Timing Belt
« on: December 15, 2008, 04:10:34 PM »
Well, many keep asking for it, here it is.  If anyone can take some pics I can add, please let me know.  This can be done by people that can change thier own oil.  But, if you have any doubts about yourself then it would help to have someone more experienced then you to help.  The average you can save doing this yourself, $250-350.

Note: if you have issues with the timing belt walking off the gears, then you may have a worn or taperd lower timing gear.  The early engines had a two-piece design that was prone to this type of failure.  You can update it to the later one-piece model.  The part numbers for all the pullies are listed at the end of this how-to.

A. Cam lock tool.  Can be made from flat-bar stock or bought at some part stores.  http:// carries it.
B. Metric socket set and box end wrench set.  You will only need the 8 mm, 10mm, and whatever size the crank pulley bolt is, I think that is 19 mm.
C. Jack and jackstand of course.
D. Lug nut wrench or equivilent socket to remove the wheel.
E. Large adjustable wrench.
F. Set of allen wrenches.
G. Haynes or similar manual for torque values.

Getting started:
1. Put the passenger side of the car on a jackstand and remove that wheel.  Remove the plastic splash gaurd that covers the bottom of the car and the passenger side.  These are 10 mm bolts.

2. Remove the crank pulley.  This can be done without an impact gun.  Use an impact gun if you have one, but if you don't, then follow this procedure.  Use the correct socket for the crank bolt (I think it is 19 mm) with an extension and breaker bar.  Put the breaker bar and socket on the bolt and brace the breaker bar against the lower control arm.  I used another jackstand and a few small boxes.  The idea is to have the bar snugly pressed against the control arm and proped up from underneath so it sits square with the crank bolt.  Now, dis-connect the 3-wire connector at the ignition coil so the car won't actually start.  Make sure the car is not in gear and no one is standing near the breaker bar.  Bump the key about a second in the start position.  This should break the bolt loose and now you can go remove it.

3. With the crank pulley off you can now see the timing belt gear.  Remove the splash shied cover that is behind the crank pulley.  It is held by three 8 mm bolts I believe.  Also remove the upper timing belt dust cover.  These are 8 mm as well.

4. Remove the valve cover.  Start by dis-connecting the VCT connector on top and remove the spark plug galley cover if you have one.  These are 8 mm bolts.  The valve cover is held on by 8 mm bolts as well.  The one on the passenger-firewall side has a stud on it and will require the use of an 8 mm wrench or deep well socket.  Do not let the gasket touch the ground.  Soak the gasket in WD-40 so it will swell back to original shape and you can reuse it.

5. Now we set the cams at TDC.  TDC is Top-Dead-Center.  It is the higest point in the cylinder that the #1 piston reaches on the compression stroke.  If you have the cam locking tool, it will only slide into the back of the cams (driver side) when they are set at TDC.  You may have to rotate the exhaust cam several degrees to get the cam locking tool to slide into the exhaust cam.  This is normal because of the nature of the VCT.  If you need to rotate the cams to get the locking tool in, then put the crank bolt back in the hole and turn the entire crank with that bolt.  After the locking tool is able to fit into the intake cam (firewall side) then use a large adjustable wrench to on the exhaust cam (there are flat spots near the belt for the wrench to fit onto) to rotate the exhaust cam.

If you are replacing a broken belt or a belt that has otherwise skipped time, then you will have to set the cams at TDC and the crank at TDC seperatly.  If this is the case, then follow the instructions outlined in the blue text.  If you do not have a broken belt (you are replacing a belt before it breaks or otherwise fails) then you do not have to set the crank at TDC, it will be set when you set the cams at TDC

5a. If you need to set the crank at TDC seperate from the cams then you can do so with a few methods.  You can purchase and use the TDC bolt.  There is a small bolt in the front (exhaust side) of the block behind the catalyst.  You will have to remove the catalyst to see it.  You can install the bolt and rotate the crank to stop against it to set TDC.  You can also remove the spark plug from the #1 cylinder and insert and long screwdriver into the hole.  Then you rotate the crank until the screwdriver is at its' highest point.  There will be a point where you can move the crank just slightly and the screwdriver will not go up or down.  This is TDC for the crank.  One final method that has worked for me is to just set the crank key (the small notch the crank pulley slides over) at the 12 o'clock position.  Notice that the engine leans slighty forward.  Since each tooth on the crank pulley is about 16* of timing, it would be hard to be off a tooth and not notice.

6. Now with everything set at TDC you can remove the old belt.  If the belt has already removed itself (broken) then you still have to loosen the tensioner.  Below the intake cam gear you will find the tensioner.  It has a small notch on the front with a place to put an allen wrench and a 10 mm bolt sticking out.  You have to loosen the 10 mm bolt.  It is a small space and this is where a long 10 mm box-end wrench comes in handy.  Loosen it about 3 turns and push that allen slot down (it rotates) and this will release tension from the belt.  Slide the belt off.

7. Now we install the new belt.  This can be a bit difficult because the new belt is not streched at all and will prove difficult.  You may be tempted to try prying it on with a pry bar (or screwdriver), please resist the urge to do that.  After you cuss alot and the belt slides on make sure it sits just inside the gears the entire length of the belt.  Now you can apply tension.  Tighten the tensioner 10 mm bolt up just a engough to keep the allen key from falling down under its' own weight.  Behind the tensioner is a backplate with a notch cut into it.  You can see there is a line it is supposed to point to.  Make sure it is pointing to it when you start to put tension on the belt with the allen slot.  Now you need to hold that allen slot with the allen wrench in a 3 o'clock position while you tighten the tension bolt.  It is a very small space to work in and it will make you mad, but it has to be done.  Get the bolt good and snug.  Don't overtighten it, it might break off.  After you get this done you  need to check the belt deflection.  Just push down in the center of the belt (between the cam gears) and see if it travels downward more then a 1/4 inch.  If not, then the tension is set fine.  If it won't let you move it at all, then the tension is too much and may cause the belt to break.

8. Now you can put it back together.  Remove the cam locking tool and the TDC bolt (if you used one).  Rotate the crank with the crank bolt one full turn to make sure the belt isn't going to bind on anything.  If all is well then you put everything together the way it was removed with the following notes:
A. Install any parts you removed if you used the TDC bolt.
B. Re-connect your coil plug if you removed it, some people forget then get scared when the car doesn't start.
C. When you install the valve cover, you need to wipe the head mating surface down to make sure it is clean.  Here is the torque pattern and sequence.

Thanks to ZZZX2 for that picture.
D. This would be a great time to install a UDP
E. When you install the crank pulley, use some medium strength Loc-tite on the bolt to ensure it won't come off.  Just get it as tight as you can.  The engine will move but that is fine.  The Loc-tite will keep it from coming back out.

Torque Values & Part Numbers:
Torque Specs
Idler pullies: 35 ft-lbs

Part Numbers for pullies:

Timing Belt Tensioner

Pulley (Upper Timing Belt Pulley Pre 99.5)

Pulley (Lower Timing Belt Pulley)

Timing Belt (# 9)

While there get the crank gear too. I believe it has 6268 as the middle number

I did this from memory, so if you find that I missed anything, please let me know so I can correct it.  As always, if you feel grateful enought to pay, my Pay Pal addy is: [email:37f3nsqf][/email:37f3nsqf]

-Another quality how-to brought to you by ZX2Fast.
Brad K.

Interior / Remote Start/Keyless Entry
« on: December 14, 2008, 07:30:24 AM »
This is a very basic remote start/keyless entry install. I cannot cover every possible situation in this how-to. Anyone that has a general knowledge of automobile electronics should be able to perform this install. I am a competent installer but I am not responsible for damage you cause resulting from this how-to. If you do not believe you can do this yourself then pay someone to do it for you. That is a better way then to end up with a burnt hunk of metal. If you need help with this then contact me by AIM, Razberry Eater.

I will list the tools you will most commonly need. If you do not have these things then go get them before you attempt this install.
1. Volt/ohm meter. For the love of God, do not use a test light. I don't care what dad/grandpa/mechanic/baby-sitter told you.
2. Set of sockets and screwdrivers.
3. Really good electrical tape. The 3M tape is great. You want tape that is soft and flexible. You do not want tape that is brittle and hard. If you can't afford good tape then did you steal the remote starter?
4. Some 16-14 gauge wire is handy for when the wire from the harness is not long enough.
5. Wire strippers, crimpers, cutters. You can usually get them all in one handy tool.
6. Zip ties (wire ties).
7. Quick wire splices. I use the ones that go over the wire then you put the wire you want to splice in then crimp them down with pliers. Here is a picture of them.

They are the red connectors in this picture. You will need blue ones (16-14 gauge) and red ones (22-18 gauge). You will see in the pictures during the install which ones I used.
8. Set of channel locks or wire pliers. Channel locks work best for me.
9. Drill with a set of good drill bits.
10. A good work light. It is dark under the dash.
11. A screw that fits into the ring terminal for the ground wire of the unit. You will use this to ground the wire to the frame of the car.
12. Sharp knife or razor for cutting insulation off of wires.

You will read a bit about negative (-) and positive (+) triggers during this how-to. When you test something for a + trigger you will see 12 volts when the component or switch is operated. i.e., the parking lights are a + system. They see 12 volts when you turn the switch on. When you test for a - trigger you will see 12 volts when the component is not being operated and zero volts when it is. i.e., the door pin in the ZX2 is a negative trigger. When the door is closed, the switch will read 12 volts. With the door open the switch will test for zero volts or ground. This is usually a wire that grounds a relay to operate a device.

Now I will show you how to splice into the larger ignition wires. You do not want to cut these wires in half. You will kick yourself for it. The method I use involves making two cuts about 1.5" across the wire, just deep enough to get through the insulation. Then make a cut along the wire going from one cut to the other. You should now be able to take that 1.5" section off of the wire and expose the conductor. It will look like this.

Now you will use the test probe from your volt/ohm meter to split the conductor in half and insert the wire you wish to splice. Then wrap the wire around the conductor and tape it up.

Run wires along the stock harness when possible. Make certain they cannot be kicked by accident.

It is a good idea to have a spare car handy incase you need to go get parts. Also, roll the windows down to avoid locking the keys in the vehicle. Make certain the light you have has good batteries (if you are not using a 115-volt light) or that you have spares handy.
You will have to leave the battery connected during the install. You have to be able to test the wires to make certain you have the right ones. Just remember to not cross wires or leave wires exposed. Be sure you have a good idea of the location of the wires you need and the color of the wires. If you need wire colors, email me and I will try to find them for you. I am including wire colors for the ZX2 below. It may be helpful to print this up and take it with you to do the install. Now do an inventory of the unit you bought and make certain it came with everything. The remoter starter and/or keyless entry are referred to as the 'unit'. The wires coming from the unit are part of the 'harness'. Unless I specify the vehicle harness you can take it as the harness from the unit. When I say 12 volts, I mean battery voltage. Not all batteries make exactly 12 volts. So long as it is in that range, 11-13 volts, it is good. I will refer to it as 12 volts because it is faster and easier then typing out 'battery voltage'.

These are the wire colors for the Escort ZX2. These are the most common colors. I say this because Ford likes to change them between model years just to piss you off. The victim for this install is my wife's 1998 Escort ZX2. It is a manual transmission vehicle. The wires we connect in this how-to work for the MTX and ATX ZX2`s. The only exception being the tach wire (you can use it in ATX for more accurate starting if you want, but it is required for MTX) and the start wire that goes to the clutch switch. The ATX will use the start wire that goes to the harness on the steering column. The unit used in this how-to is a manual transmission safe model sold by Designtech-Intl.  They were bought by Directed Electronics and no longer offer this model.  You can find MTX safe models at a local car electronics shop or Ebay.

Start: For MTX red/white coming from the clutch switch. For ATX it is the red/white wire on the steering column. It will test for 12 volts only when the key is turned to start and the clutch is pushed in.
Ignition 1: Blue. This wire powers the things required to run the vehicle like the fuel pump and PCM. It will test for 12 volts when the key is in the start and run positions only.
Ignition 2: Black/red. This wire powers things not required to run the car, like the A/C and rear defrost. It tests for 12 volts when the key is in the run position only. Some vehicles it will test for 12 volts just like the ignition 1 wire does.
Accessory wire: Black/white wire. This wire powers up things like the stereo and cigarette lighter. It tests for 12 volts when the key is in the Acc. and run positions.
Brake wire: Green. This wire activates the brake lights. You can find it on the brake switch and test for 12 volts when the brake pedal is pushed down.
Tach wire: Light green/red at PCM, red/ light blue or blue/ light green at the coil. To test for this wire set your volt/ohm meter to the 20 volt ac scale. Ground the red test probe and use the black test probe to test the wire. The wire will read a low voltage at idle. The voltage will increase as the engine speed increases. This wire is required for most MTX units but is an option for ATX.
Parking Lights: Red/black. This wire shows 12 volts when the parking lights are on and zero when they are off. You can find this wire in the relay cluster or in the green connector below the cabin fuse box.
Door Pin wire: Red/white. This is a - triggered wire. It sees 12 volts with the door closed and zero volts with the door open. This wire is usually used as an alarm input or to turn on the dome light. For the MTX unit I used it is required to be connected.
Lock wire: Grey. This wire is a - trigger wire. Located in the passenger kick panel in the same harness as the unlock and trunk wires.
Unlock wire: Blue. This is a - triggered wire. Located in the passenger kick panel with the lock and trunk wires.
Trunk release wire: Green/black wire. This is a - triggered wire. Located in the passenger kick panel with the lock/unlock wires.
Horn wire: Green/orange. This is a - triggered wire. Located on the steering column.

*Hook the ground wire for the unit up first. This way you will have a good ground for your meter when you test wires.[color=FF4000]*[/COLOR] Drill a hole in the body/frame of the interior. Try to avoid using the dash/bracing. It is not a very reliable ground. Drill the hole just big enough for the screw you are using through the ring terminal. The screw should fit tight.

Keyless Entry
First we will discuss how to install the keyless entry incase that is all you are installing.
A. Locate the wires that operate the locks and trunk. The wires for the ZX2 are all in one place. Remove the kick panels from the passenger and drivers side. Also, remove the center console(MTX only). The wires are located in the passenger kick panel. Wire up the harness and run the wires behind the console (stereo and PCM) to the drivers side. You may have to use some wire to extend the units' harness wires.

B. Keyless entry units generally require input from the ignition 1 wire. If so, then wire it up now. If you are installing a remote start, you must do this also. Remember to use the splice method described above for the best connection without using solder.

C. Keyless entry also requires power. Most keyless entry units can be powered from a constant 12 volt source under the dash of the car. Read the manufacturers recommendations for power. All remote start units should be powered directly from the battery, no matter what the manufacturer says. Drill a hole, or locate a grommet, for the power wire. All the ATX guys get lucky here because most cars have a plug where a clutch would be if it were MTX. I just drilled a hole. Make the hole is plenty big. If you can find a grommet to stick in that would be great. I just wrap tape around all the wires and stab them into the hole. With enough tape, they won't go anywhere. You can also put a hole in the grommet that the PCM wires use through the firewall.  You can use a razor to cut a slit for new wires.  This is located in the firewall (of course) on the passenger side between the door and console.

If you connect it to the battery, you may have to splice the fuse holder in. Some of them come with a butt connector. However you splice it, if you need to splice, make sure you tape it up really good and put the fuse holder as close to the battery as possible. Do not put the fuse in the holder at this point.

D. Another connection typically shared by keyless entry and remote start is the door pin wire. If the keyless entry came with alarm, this wire will trigger the alarm when the door is open. The remote start for MTX requires this connection for part of the safety method. Connect this wire to the door pin wire. The ZX2 is a - triggered system.

E. The horn wire is another one that is used by both remote start and keyless entry units. It is used to confirm lock/unlock and/or start. It also activates the horn when the alarm is triggered. Connect this wire to the corresponding wire in the harness. Most horns are - triggered.

F. Guess what, another typically shared wire. The parking lights. Most are + systems. The ZX2 is. Connect this wire now. I connected mine in the relay harness. It is easier to reach.

*If you have not read the keyless entry portion of this how-to, you may want to do so. Most of these wires are shared.*
Now that we have that keyless entry out of the way we can get down to business
A. Let's wire up the start wire. If you are MTX, you can just wire this to the switched side of the clutch switch. Most clutch switches are just interrupt switches that close when you push the clutch in. The ZX2 is this way. Refer to the wire color chart above for the wire color. If you are putting this into an ATX then use the start wire on the column. The picture below is for MTX vehicles since that is what I installed it into.

B. Now wire up your Ignition 2 and Accessory wires. Read the wire chart to determine the behavior and location of these wires. In the ZX2 they are on the steering column.

C. Now time for the brake wire. This wire shows 12 volts when the brake is applied. You can find this wire on the brake switch above the pedal.

D. Let's hook up the tach wire now. Determine where you want to connect it. I put mine under the hood because I could not find a good signal at the PCM.

E. Now you need to mount the hood pin switch. Select a location that allows you to reach to bottom of the switch to put the wire on. It needs to allow enough travel so the switch doesn't break with the hood closed and needs to be adjusted so it won't put a dent in the hood. Drill a hole or use an existing hole. Just be certain of what is on the other side of the hole. Test the pin for operation before you continue. After everything is all fine a dandy, you might want to put some silicone around the hole so it does not rust.

F. If your unit is so equipped, you need to mount the LED in a visible place. You also need to mount the on/off switch within easy reach of the driver. This is how mine looked when I was done.

E. MTX units require an input from the e-brake. So, just hook this wire into the only wire that comes off the e-brake.

The remote start unit I used required that I teach it the tach rate of the vehicle. I can say with some degree of certainty that the ZX2 does not want anything to know the tach rate. I had to try many times to teach it to the unit. And when if finally worked, it didn't do it right. So, it didn't learn the way it said it would but it still works. This was the most frustrating part of the install. But, it is done now.

Take this chance to program the unit to user options. Then use wire ties to hold all the wires up. Make sure you can turn the steering wheel without binding up any wires. Any wires under the hood need to be kept away from hot and moving parts. Clean up your mess and try it out. I hope this how-to was of some assistance and maybe you gained some insight on the operation of the vehicle electrical system. Good Luck!

Wrote by: Brad Kirby (ZX2Fast) March 29, 2004
If you wish to use part or all of this please ask my permission first. You can use the pictures freely but not the text. Email me if you want to use the text.

Engine/Transmission / Keman Intake Mod
« on: December 14, 2008, 07:16:47 AM »
This is the original text from 2006.  If you see something that needs updated, please let me know

Okay, this is the real way you do the Keman intake mod.  The original is lost and it seems people aren't doing it the right way anymore, this will clear up the confusion.  

The stock intake was designed with quite in mind, not performance.  So, it has two air resonators that slow and quite down the flow of air.  The stock intake is a true CAI and draws all of the air through a 1" snorkel that goes into the fender.  Doing this modification removes both of the resonators, opens up the air box, and makes the intake louder and deeper in sound.

Getting started
You will need a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and some sockets with rachet.  A Dremel with cut-off wheels or a hacks-all will be needed to cut off the end of the air box.  You also need some schedule 40 2" PVC, a 4" to 3" plastic drain adapter, and a 2" to 2" PVC coupling.  Also handy would be some two-part plastic epoxy and clear silicone adhesive.
1. Remove the intake by undoing the hose clamp at the throttle body, the squeeze clamp for the valve cover vent at the air box, the squeeze clamp for the brake booster line, unplug the MAF connector and IAT connector (if you have the IAT connector), and remove the bolts that hold the air box down.

2. Remove the entire intake assembly.  Separate the end of the air box by removing the lever clamp, this is where the air filter goes.  Remove the air filter and set it aside.
3. Now remove the lower resonator.  It sits under the spot the air box bolts to.  It looks like this.

It bolts into place and will take a few twist and turns to get it out.  You can throw this away.  Notice at the bottom of the air box there was a snorkel that went into the resonator.  It doesn't draw air in this way, it just uses that hole for resonating the air.
4. Now, when you removed the air box you had to pull the snorkel out of the fender.  There is a plastic-rubber peace that bolts to the fender here.  You can remove this to.  
5. Now you can cut the air box.  Cut it after the 'R' in 'FILTER' so that you now have a 4-6" opening.  Here is a before and after picture.

6. With this opening you can leave it this way or put a sewer adapter in place of the hole, use some clear silicone to seal it up, and extend it to the fender so that you now draw cold air from the fender.

This picture shows the adapter installed but not sealed, you need to put the box back in the car to see how far you have to pull the adapter out to get to the fender before you seal it up with silicone.
7. Now we move to the upper resonator.  Remove it and pick up some 2" schedule 40 PVC and a 2" to 2" PVC coupler.  Since one of the resonator is bigger then the other, the coupler will make one end bigger.  Just put the coupler on the end of the pipe and use the resonator to mark where you need to cut for the right length.  To make sure everything will line up, install the upper pipe but leave the hose clamps loose.  Now with the intake installed you can adjust it and tighten the hose clamps down.  The hose clamps are usually enough to make this intake work fine.  But, I've found that it sometimes will slide out of that upper pipe and this will make the car die.  I used two-part plastic epoxy to seal it up good.  It never comes apart now, it will look like this when you are done.

You can paint it to match the intake if you like.  Just wait units the epoxy is dry.
8. Now you are done.  You have a CAI, if you used the adapter, or a good flowing WAI for much less then buying an aftermarket intake.  You can also install a high-flow air filter for more flow through your intake.

-Brad (ZX2Fast)

Engine/Transmission / Re: ATX to MTX Swap
« on: December 14, 2008, 06:53:02 AM »
1 Install the MTX brake master cylinder.
2 Wire up the reverse lights, locate the connector that you pulled from the gear selection switch, Ford calls it the Transmission Range Sensor, I call it the Park Neutral switch.  It was attatched to the top of the ATX and had a large electrical connector.  On your MTX there is a switch, on the front, that has wires on it.  One is red/green, the other is black/yellow.  On your ATX wire harness you will cut two wires.  One is red/green, the other is black/white.  Connect them like so, red to red, black to black.  These are the only wires you will have to cut for the reverse lights.  I added four inches of wire to mine so I would have room for my rear O2 sensor harness to reach.

3 To the best of my knowledge, you do not need to wire the neutral switch that is on the rear of the MTX tranny, it has two green wires on it.  For reasons that could happen later, do not cut them to short to use later.  Tape them out of the way.
4 In the same wire harness for the reverse lights there will be a thick red and a thick black/red wire.  Cut these two wires and splice them together really good.  The car will not start if you do not wire them together.
5 Install the clutch master cylinder.
6 Install the pedal assembly, make sure to put that pin back in the brake bracket and the rod on the clutch pedal will go inside the hole in the clutch master cylinder.
7 Remove the start switch loop from the connector and hook that connector into the switch on the clutch pedal.  There is one more connector that goes on the clutch switch pedal, it is for the cruise control.
8 Install the steering column.
9 Install the trim you removed to take the steering column out.
10 Install the shifter housing.
11 Install the shifter, be sure to put the spacers in the shifter and the retaining clip.
12 Install the MTX PCM..
13 Install the shifter boot on the console and install the console, put the shift knob on.
14 Put the shifter rod on the shifter, there should be a shoulder bolt that goes through shifter and rod.
15 Put the MTX CPS sensor housing in the engine block.  Hook up that electrical connector.
16 Install the MTX flywheel.  The flywheel will only bolt up one way.  The holes are off-center so you can’t install it wrong.  Put some medium strength Loc-tite on the flywheel bolts.  They are tightend in a criss-cross pattern to about 80 ft-lbs.
17 Install the pilot bearing.  I used a deep-well socket just larger then the diameter of the bearing, I think I used a 14mm socket.

18 Install the clutch.  Be sure to use the clutch alignment tool.  Make sure you install the clutch disc the correct way.  It should be labeled what side faces the flywheel or pressure plate.  Put the pressure plate on the pins and put the bolts in.  Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to spec.  I can't recall it now so look in your Haynes manual.
19 Put the MTX tranny-to-block spacer on now.
20 Make sure your tranny is ready to go in.  Your throw out bearing is in and seated good.  The lever isn’t binding on anything and the boot is seated good.  Spray the clutch and flywheel down with some brake parts cleaner to get your greasy handy work off it and lets put this tranny on.
21 Put the tranny on, make sure the input shaft lines up with the hole in the clutch.  There are two dowel pins.  Be sure to line them up.  It will save you a lot of work.  Pick the tranny up and guide it in by the tail.  Wiggle it and push by the tail after the input shaft is clear of the clutch fingers.  It should slide easily into the pilot bearing.  It works better if you can keep the engine from swinging.   
22 Put all the tranny bolts in, make sure not to confuse them with the starter bolts.  Make sure that bracket the cat bolts to goes back on the tranny.  It goes on the bottom and two of the tranny bolts hold it on.
23 If it is not already on, install the clutch slave cylinder.
24 If it is not already on, install the rear tranny mount.
25 Install the starter and put the wires back on it.
*26 There is really no easy way to put this back in the car.  I removed the lower cross-member the tranny sits on.  I lowered the engine just lower then it sits in the car.  Then I installed the top mount bolt.  Then in installed the rear mount.  Now I put the cross-member on the rear mount and then jacked the engine up and put the bolts in the rear of the cross-member.  I jacked it up a bit more and installed the bolts in the front of the cross-member.  Now the front tranny mount is sitting on the cross-member (the engine balancer I had sucked) I put the top tranny mount on the studs and then hammered the front tranny mount into the holes.  TA DA.
27 Tighten up all the mount bolts.
28 Now this is back in the car.  Hook the clutch master cylinder up to the clutch slave cylinder.
29 The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal with these exceptions:
The rubber seals on the tranny were the axles go in and the rubber seals on the spindles where the axles go in, coat them with a thin film of high temp axle grease before you put the axles in to help keep the seals from drying out.  When you install the passenger axle, you might have to remove the oil filter, make sure you replace that .5 quart of oil, you might also have to move that bastard lower coolant hose to get that one bolt in, it is 8mm holding that hose on.  Don’t forget to stake down the new axle nuts.  Fill the tranny through the VSS hole.  It holds 3.5 quarts of fluid.  Bleed the brake system before you bleed the clutch.  Do not install the cooling fan until you have bled the clutch.  Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder.  Bleed until you get air, trust me, its there.  Do not let the brake fluid get under the minimum mark, you will have to start over.  When pouring in new coolant, be sure to leave the cap off and start the engine, let it run and get hot so the thermostat will open and suck in the coolant and you can pour more in.   

I hope this helped you out a bit.  If you have any questions then contact me and I'll help the best I can.

Engine/Transmission / ATX to MTX Swap
« on: December 14, 2008, 06:52:19 AM »
This is the original text from 2005.  If you find something that needs an update, please let me know.  I'm really glad I saved this one, I didn't want to type all of that out again.

I want to make it clear.  If you use this as a guide, for parts or step-by-step, for any profit in any manner then I expect payment.  I put a lot of time and effort into getting this done.  I can't have everyone else going around making money off my labor.  So, if you did use this then I expect 10% of your profit.  If you use this for your personal use, then I expect nothing in return.  That is, after all, why I wrote this.  So the average tuner that doesn't have a lot of cash can do this swap without taking it to someone and spending all that money.

Steps with an '*' next to them are used only if you plan to remove the engine for this swap.  Some people plan to do many other mods at the same time that would be easier to do with the engine out.

Where to start?  Well, make sure you have all of your parts before you get started.  Don’t get it halfway done and then have to wait for someone to ship you a part.  You won’t like the waiting.  Here is a rundown of the parts list you will need.  If you can find a wrecked ZX2 MTX with a good tranny for $500 or so, buy that.  You will also need to have the A/C system emptied before you start this swap.

Shifter housing (the shifter sits inside of it and connects to the tranny)
Shifter rod (connects the shifter to the tranny)

Shifter inserts (small plastic inserts in the bottom of the shifter, without them, the shifter will be sloppy.  Also, at the other end of the shift rod where it meets the tranny)
Shifter retaining clip (holds the shifter into the housing from the top)
Shift boot
Shift boot hold down (plastic peice that bolts to the bottom of the console to hold the boot in place)

Shift knob
MTX Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
MTX PCM (you can find them on Ebay cheap, make sure the code you get is chippable by emailing a chip dealer and give them the code.  This only applies if you plan to chip it.)
Brake and clutch pedal assembly (they are both on the same bracket)
Transmission (find one with the lowest mileage possible.)
Transmission-to-engine block spacer (the ATX spacer is thicker, you can still use the ATX has the same spacer as the MTX, but the MTX has one additional spacer)

Front and rear tranny mounts (these may come with the tranny)
Tranny top mount (the very top part on the ATX is the same, but there is a lower part on the MTX that is needed)
Brake master cylinder from MTX

Clutch master cylinder (attached to the brake master cylinder by hose)

Clutch slave cylinder (goes on top of the tranny)

Clutch release lever (should still be in the tranny, the clutch slave cylinder pushes this to release the clutch pressure, it may be installed on the transmission already)

Clutch kit with throw-out bearing and pilot bearing (most kits come with both bearings)

MTX flywheel (if you buy a used one, be sure to have it resurfaced)
MTX crank position sensor with housing (the sensors are the same, but the housing is different, the picture has the part number of the housing if you need to order it from Ford)

Inner half-shaft for passenger axle (this is the part with the bracket)

Both axles

Axle nuts
Bolts for the passenger axle bracket (they are the same thread pitch as the tranny-to-block bolts, but they need to be about ½” shorter)
If you have more pictures please share them.

You need a good set of assorted tools.  Sockets are your friend.  All these bolts are metric so a good ½" and 3/8" drive socket set is a good idea.  A ½" drive breaker bar comes in handy.  A cheater bar can be your friend to.  This will be much less of a hassle if you have a good impact gun.  You need a torque wrench with foot pound readings to.  You’ll be doing a bit of rewiring to, so some wire strippers and tape will be needed.  Find or borrow a cherry picker (engine lift) This can be done without one, but much easier with one.  A good floor jack and some jack stands will be needed.

A garage will make this easier.  At the very least a concrete surface.
*1 Start by removing the hood
2 Remove the front wheels and un-stake the nut.  You can see a dent in the outside edge of the nut.  It goes into a groove on the axle, you won’t be able to remove it with this dent.  Knock the center cap out of the wheels and put them back on the car.  You only have to put two lug nuts back on, you’ll be taking the wheels back off soon.  Put the car back on the ground.
3 Use the breaker bar and a 32mm socket to remove the axle nuts.  This is where a cheater bar comes in handy.  If you have air tools, this would be a good use for them.
4 Now jack the car back up to remove the axles from the spindles.  I just undo the spindle from the strut and pull the axles out that way.  It helps to remove the clip that holds the brake hose to the strut, this gives you more room to work with.

The spindle is held to the strut by two bolts and nuts.  After you remove the axle from the spindle, put the bolts back in and finger tighten the nuts.  You won’t need to tighten the bolts for the spindle to strut because you will have to remove them again to install the new axles.  Put the wheels on and put the car back on the ground.
5 Remove the battery and battery tray.  The tray is held in place by four 10mm bolts.
*6 The negative battery cable is also bolted down with a 8mm bolt, remove this.
7 Remove the cooling fan, three 10mm bolts and one electrical connector.
*8 Drain the radiator coolant, there is a drain cock on the bottom driver side of the radiator.
9 Disconnect the tranny cooler lines from the radiator.
10 Remove those lines from the tranny.
*11 Remove the radiator, There is one hose up top driver side and two on the lower passenger side.  They are held there with spring-loaded clamps you can squeeze together with pliers.  You will also have to remove the upper brackets held in place with two 10mm nuts/bolts each.  Remove the lower radiator hoses from the block to.  It will be easier to remove the engine with this out of the way.  The small lower hose also connects to the frame with two 10mm bolts.
12 Disconnect the O2 sensors, the rear one you will have to remove the VSS sensor bracket, one 10mm bolt.  Or, you can just pull the plastic clip off, but I left mine on so it would have a place to connect.
*13 Disconnect the power steering pressure line, it is above where the front O2 sensor connector is.  You can loosen it up then remove the three bolts that hold the hose down and pull it apart.
*14 Remove the power steering reservoir hose from the pump.  
*15 On the intake side of the engine, remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold.  I think there are three of them.  Two have squeeze clips on it, one just pulls off.
*16 Disconnect the two wire harness connectors by the throttle body.
*17 Remove the heater core hoses.  They are by the firewall and have those spring loaded clips like the radiator hoses.
*18 Remove the throttle cables.
19 Remove the tranny shift cable from the top of the tranny, just one nut holds it on.
20 Disconnect all the electrical connectors from the tranny.
*21 Unbolt the fuse box (two nuts) and remove all the electrical connectors from the bottom that do not run into the engine harness.  Some of the wires run along the frame and some run towards the engine.  The entire fuse box and cables will come out with the drive train.
*22 Undo the electrical connector from the A/C compressor, it might also have a zip-tie holding it to the compressor housing.  Also undo the bolt that holds the compressor hose on.  It is a long bolt and will take some time to remove.
23 Remove the axles.  You might not be able to pry them out.  I just pulled them apart at the boots as close to the tranny as possible.
24 Remove the oil dipstick, there is one 8mm bolt holding it to the head.  It will just pull out, might require some wiggle pulls to get it out.
25 Remove the driver-to-passenger side cross-member.
26 Unbolt the cat-back exhaust.
27 Remove the heat-shield from the exhaust manni.  You don't have to, but it might be easier to see what you are doing.
28 Unbolt the cat converter, there are two nuts that you will have to reach from the bottom.
29 There should also be two bolts holding the cat to a bracket mounted to the tranny.  Remove the cat from the car.
**** AT THIS POINT THE ONLY THING KEEPING THE DRIVE TRAIN IN THE CAR ARE THE FOUR MOUNTS.  There should not be any wires or hoses between the drive train and frame of the car.  Do another look around before proceeding.
30 Remove the four nuts from the two lower tranny mounts.
31 Hook the engine hoist up to the engine and jack it up until you see it put just a little pressure on it.  If you are not removing the engine, put a jack with a block of wood or thick book under the oil pan.  Jack it up just enough to support the engine when you take the cross-member down
32 Remove the bolts holding the driver side mount to the frame.  
Remove the three nuts on the top of that mount to.
33 Remove the nut from the passenger side top mount.  Then remove
the three nuts from the top of it.  This may require some fancy hoist
work and pry-bar action on the loose driver top mount, but remove the
entire mount that is now loose.
*34 Jack the engine up until the front mount pops out of the
cross-member, then remove the front tranny mount from the tranny.
*35 The rear mount likes to wedge and stick in the cross-member.
You might be able to get under the car and remove the entire front to
back cross-member now.    The A/C compressor doesn’t like to clear the
front of the frame if you don’t watch it.  The intake manni also catches
on the EVAP canister.
*36 Now that we have the engine out, time to remove the tranny.  Remove the starter bolts, there are three.  Remove the starter from the wire harness.  You can leave it on if you tie it to the intake manni with some wire just so it doesn't get in the way or hang from the wires.
37 Remove the rest of the tranny bolts.
38 You may have to use a pry bar to get the tranny broken free of the block.  The ATX is heavy so have a helper.  It may be helpful to perform step 39 first.
39 Remove the torque converter.  There are four nuts holding it on.  I used vice-grips to hold the flex-plate still while I remove the nuts.
40 Remove the flex-plate by removing the bolts that hold it to the crank.  Leave the vice-grips so the flex-plate won’t turn while you loosen the bolts.
41 Remove the CPS sensor housing.  On the flywheel side there is a single bolt holding it in.  Remove that bolt and take the housing and sensor with it.  The CPS sensor has one connector to.

42 On to the inside of the car.  Remove the center console and shifter knob.
43 Disconnect the electrical connectors that are on the ATX shifter housing.
44 Disconnect the shift cable from the shifter.
45 Disconnect the key lock cable.
46 Remove the housing with the shifter, there are four nuts/bolts holding it in.
47 Remove the PCM, a single bolt holds the connector to the PCM.
48 Cut the shifter cable at the firewall in the engine compartment.  Pull the rest of it in from inside the car.
49 Pull the key-lock cable from under the PCM and behind the dash.  It runs into the steering column.  Leave it for later.
50 From inside the engine compartment, remove the nut on the plate where the clutch master cylinder will go.
51 Inside the car, remove the clip that holds the brake rod to the pedal.
52 Remove the nuts/bolts that hold the pedal assembly bracket to firewall.  There are also two nuts that hold it to the dash brace.
53 Remove the electrical connectors from the brake pedal switches.
54 Remove the steering column trim and the panel that is below the column.
55 Disconnect the electrical connectors that run between the steering column and the dash.  
56 Remove the pinch bolt that holds the steering column to the steering rack input shaft.
57 There are two bolts holding the steering column to the dash.  When you remove them the column will fall, so be prepared.
58 Remove the column from the car, the pedal assembly will come with it, now you can take that key-lock cable off.  You will need a zip-tie to hold that actuator open so you can remove the key.  Make sure you have the actuator open by inserting the key and testing that you can turn the key and then remove it in the off position.
59Remove the ATX brake master cylinder.

Lighting Modifications / Re: M3 Mirror
« on: December 19, 2006, 06:50:29 AM »
Quote from: "Foos Fight "
ZX2Fast...?  I'm positive that he'd know.  He's the wiring genius for the ZX2.  At least that's my opinion

- Darron

You're gonna look dumb when I can't figure it out!

Anyhow, you need to figure out what the wires on the mirror do.  One will of course be ground.  I'm not sure I understand the wires you listed here.  How many wires are coming from the mirror?  There should only be two unless it supports parking lamps separate from blinkers.  If you have two, this will be really easy.  The turn signal wires you need from the parking lamps are: passenger side lamp- green/white=turn, red/black=parking; driver side lamp- green/black=turn, red/black=parking.  If you want them to blink, you hook the wire up to the turn wire.  If you have three wires coming from the mirror, one will be parking lamp and the other will be turn lamp.  Just hook them up to the battery (two wires at a time, one ground one hot) to see which wire does what.  The brighter light will be the turn light.  Since one wire will be ground, just run it to any bare metal on the frame.  The other one or two wires will be your power and will have to be run to the respective parking lamps.  The wire colors I listed are for the inner turn signals.  If you hook them up and find they blink too fast, you'll have to use relays (or find a higher amp blinker module) to operate the blinker part of the mirrors.  If you find you have to do this, AIM and I'll tell you how to wire up the relays.  AIM is RazberryEater

Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: stuck axel
« on: November 04, 2006, 02:26:53 AM »
I use two prybars and a spare set of hands to put even pressure on it.  That C-clip is a bitch.

Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: atx help
« on: November 02, 2006, 06:02:06 AM »
You have to take the 4 nuts off that hold the TQ converter to the flywheel.

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