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Messages - jphillis68

Pages: [1] 2
1
For Sale / Re: 99 ZX2 Sport auto REDUCED $350
« on: December 31, 2006, 10:40:49 AM »
$350 is as low as I'll go.  I'm putting it on the auction block on friday.

2
For Sale / Re: 99 ZX2 Sport auto REDUCED $500
« on: December 20, 2006, 12:17:08 AM »
apparently my last post scared everyone away.  AS it should have.  I stated this car is good as parts only, or for an experienced bodyman.

Here's what I'll do.

I am going out of ZX2 escorts, and into early VW bugs.  I probably won't need a ZX2 parts car for a long time.

Make me a best offer on this car. Just give it a shot.  If I take it, you win. There is a lot of car, here.

I jsut want it gone, now. Remember though, scrap meta prices in teh area are still at $8.50 per hundred pound.  What that means is the car is worth quite a bit just as scrap metal.

try me, if you really want it.

I have lots of new parts to go with it.

John

3
For Sale / Re: 99 ZX2 Sport auto REDUCED $500
« on: December 15, 2006, 11:34:13 AM »
ok
this is what's up.


1. The park-neutral-safety switch on the transmission needs replaced. I have the new one. the shift shaft also needs removed from the tranny,  cleaned up, coated with anti-sieze, and reinstalled.

2. The plug to the park-neutral safety switch needs replaced. This is not available through Ford. This is the part Jayco has for $15, or the whole harness for $45. 

3. The left strut needs moved to the passenger side, and a new one (included) needs put on the left (driver's side.) there wasn't one available when I needed to drop teh car on it's wheels, so I put the new right side one on teh left, and didn't reconnect the brakes.

4. Driver's side brake line needs installed from the master cylinder to the caliper. it's there, it just needs installed, after the strut is swapped.

5. The battery tray, relay box, airbox holder is all crushed and needs replaced. I do not have these parts.

6. The ground cable needs re-installed. 

7. The front headlight wiring needs spliced back together with the old wiring harness above the left wheel.

8. The windsheild wiper motor and wiper cowl needs reinstalled.

9. All exterior body panels need trimmed in, lined up and bolted on.

10. Front brakes need replaced (I have those, they come with the car)

11. Interior needs washed out, vaccuumed. there is mouse damage.

12. Interior needs reassembly, including dash board. dash board is out of car. I have the dash, but was going to dye it to match the rest of the interior.

13. Some interior pieces are missing. I am not sure which ones from memory, but there are some including a few seatbelts. 

14. Airbag module and clockspring need replaced. I do not have these parts.

15. There is no radiator or a/c condensor for this car. Those parts will need to be bought.  there are a few a/c lines that need replaced, also.

16. car needs a battery.

17. all four tires are shot. 

18. front clip needs repainted and blended into the front doors.



that's all I can think of off the top of my head, but there is probably more.  Like I said, this is not something you should do without experience.  I am not going to finish this car. I have other priorities, and the extra money is not worth it.  This car would be great for parts.  I do suggest you come look at the car, before commiting to buy.  You have to see it for yourself. if this car doesn't sell for $500, I am keeping it for parts. 

4
For Sale / Re: 99 ZX2 Sport auto REDUCED $500
« on: December 14, 2006, 01:55:25 PM »
this car does not run or move.  you need to tow it where it is going.  it wouldn't take much to get it to run, but I don't have the wiring harness end that was smashed in the wreck.  jayco said he had one for $5-15 I think.  It's a cheap part. I just don't want to sink another dime into this thing.

5
For Sale / Re: 1999 ZX2 *Parting Out*
« on: December 14, 2006, 01:50:15 PM »
what is left of the car?  which part of michigan are you in, do you have any pictures of the car after wreck, and what would you want to get for it?

Thanks,
John

6
For Sale / Re: for sale 99 ZX2 Sport auto $800
« on: December 12, 2006, 03:59:00 PM »
bump

price reduced

$500

good for parts.


here's a picture. 

7
Visual Modifications / Re: Armrest
« on: November 21, 2006, 11:08:27 PM »
roushzx2,

what's the avatar?  I know I have seen that before... but who or what is it?



as for the armrest, the escort GT had the same center console.
the mustang GT 87-93 had a simliar console
I am pretty sure you could make a 94-98 mustang consoel work in your zx2. I had one set in there, but never bolted it up, for lack of ambition.

If you really wanna go wild, 89-94 thunderbird super coupe power seats bolt right into the ZX2, and the titanium interior is almost the same as the light gray ZA interior. the SC seats have 6 way power, and power lumbar, and power side bolsters. They are much more comfortable than the ZX2 seats.

8
Visual Modifications / Re: Interior painted
« on: November 21, 2006, 09:01:51 AM »
This is probably late, but I am going to go ahead and answer the question for you, of why your handles weren't able to be painted.

First, here's a quick outline of the professional method to paint interior pieces.


- remove pieces from car, and disassemble any moving or bolted together pieces

- mix a bucket of very hot water and a few tablespoons of dawn dishwashing liquid, and castrol superclean

- using a grey scotch-brite and the bucket of soapwater, thoroughly scrub all pieces, front and back, and rinse often with a water hose. try to achieve a uniform scuff to the entire piece, so that it is evenly dull (this is very important, don't be a slacker for this part)

-rinse the pieces and your hands with water and set them on a clean new piece of masking paper to air dry.

-once all pieces are completely dry,  apply solvent based wax and grease remover with a spray bottle, and wipe dry with lint free towels.

-use a blow gun and a tack cloth to remove any dust from pieces and area

-paint
     -it is highly reccomended to use an adhesion promoter on rubber pieces, and special vinyl paints to paint them. More-so it is reccomended to use an interior specific paint  system.
     - If the pieces to be painted are NOT going ot be painted with interior specific paint, such as PPG  DBI, then the pieces must first be primed. I highly reccomend a build primer, either a 2k build, or a DTM.  Anything that comes out of a rattle can is a waste of money and an insult to all the hard work you have done. you can use rattle can primer, but you have been official warned
     
         -if primering:
                   - first coat should be light, followed by 10 minutes of tack time, proceed to apply 2 to 3 medium coats of primer with 10 minutes inbetween coats.
                   - allow paint to dry completely according to TDS
                   - wetsand with 600P grit sandpaper, and rinse thoroughly
                   - let dry
                   - degrease parts with wax and grease remover
                   - use airgun and tack cloth to remove lint and dust
                   - proceed to paint following the TDS that came with the paint.

          - if not primering:
                   - first coat should be light mist followed by 10 minutes of tack time
                   - second coat should be medium followed by 10 minutes of tack time
                   - repeat until full coverage is achieved
                   - let dry completely before reinstalling





Now, for the person who said the rubber wouldn't take paint... The reason for this is the presence of either wax, grease, or silicone contamination on the surface to be painted. silicone and paint are like oil and water. They do not mix.  a condition occurs, commonly called "fisheyeing" where the silicone repels the paint from certain areas of the surface, and creates dead spots that ressemble a fish's eye. In severe cases, the paint will just beed up and run off of the surface, without covering at all. This is all caused by silicone contamination.
"What causes silicone contamination," you may ask?  It is mainly from detailing products, such as:
ARMOR ALL
BLACK MAGIC
SON-OF-A-GUN
meguiar's TRIM DETAILER
or anything you put in or on your car to make it shinier.  Even if you don't directly apply these products to the surface being painted, your grubby little hands are probably polluted from touching other surfaces on the car, or even surfaces in your garage...    even the doorknob which I doubt you clean regularly.  This is why you must never use detailing products in your painting area. just by spraying that stuff in a shop, it can float through the air and pollute the entire building. WD-40 also contains silicone. keep it away from where-ever it is that you paint.

I am sure the reason you had problems painting the doorhandles was a lack of proper paint preparation.  Follow my directions above, and you have a much better chance of good results.

9
Visual Modifications / Re: Removing Escort ZX2 and car dealership decals
« on: November 20, 2006, 08:10:06 PM »
professional bodyshops don't use heat guns(maybe occasionally).

There is a rubber pinstripe eraser that chucks in a high speed (must be high speed) drill or die grinder.  You have to spin it about 3000 rpm, but no more than 5000 rpm.

Astro makes them, and a few other companies.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com sells them 


Doing it any other way is a waste of time and the results aren't as predictable.   Also, factory decals and dealer installed pinstriping, or emblems leave ghost inpressions in the paint that are very hard to get rid of.  In most cases, the only way to eliminate the ghost lines is to sand down to bare metal, reprime and paint. 

10
For Sale / Re: for sale 99 ZX2 Sport auto $800
« on: November 18, 2006, 02:41:52 AM »
Dean,
I am out towards Post Gazette Pavillion, Star Lake amphitheatre; in Burgettstown.  Where are you from?


IF you wanna take a look, let me know. I have a guy who wants to buy it finished for $1500, but I don't know if I want to do all the work. If you make me a cash offer, I might take it.  I am pretty open to anything. Also. I have about 15 other cars you might be interested in. some are wrecks, others are not, but make me an offer and who knows. I'll take much less than anyone else, if I know a good Ford man is getting the car!


Thank Dean,
John

PS PM me for telephone number. we'll talk.

11
For Sale / 99 ZX2 Sport auto REDUCED $350
« on: November 17, 2006, 06:21:44 AM »
99 zx2 sport auto, every option except cd changer, 44K miles, wrecked in 2003, I welded a new front clip on and did all the frame work. The new fenders and hood and bumper cover are hung, but not secured.  Interior is missing a few pieces.  This car has a PA R-title. What that means is the vehicle once was branded with a salvage title, but was reconstructed to give it the R-title status. This means the car doesn't need any additional paperwork to get a liscence plate for it. It also means the car isn't worth more than $800.  The car does need some parts to finish it.  The interior is disassembled and doesn't match the car. Engine and tranny have 44K miles on them, and both work flawlessly. The windshield has less than 500 miles on it. the rear clip is flawless, but missing the stock spoiler.

Honestly, this should be used for parts. I already did the hard part, cutting off the front frame rails, hanging the motor, welding on a new front clip frame section, and reinstalling all teh wiring harnesses, painted the inner structure to match car. Unless you are a good bodyman, don't even think of buying this car. You need skills to finish this.  I will include what is remaining of a quart of PPG DBU Ash gold Metallic base coat. You will need DR-1170 basecoat reducer and clear coat system separately.

I'm asking $800, but I'm open to offers. It's for sale locally for $1000, and the front clip is advertised on car-part.com for $1200, which is one of the lowest prices for a front clip. I just figured someone here wanted a shot at a cheap rebuilder or parts car.

pictures by email.  email me, if you want pictures.   jphillis68@hotmail.com

12
For Sale / Re: Parting Out Five Escort ZX2's
« on: November 15, 2006, 11:20:29 AM »
I just need the round airbox with MAF, both pieces of the airbox. I don't need the plastic resonator in the inner fender well, or the piping to the throttle body.

13
For Sale / Re: Parting Out Five Escort ZX2's
« on: November 15, 2006, 08:30:36 AM »
can you give me a price for the
airbox
harness
dash trim
radio (is this the CD capable one with premium sound, or standard?)
4 tires
lids

I might have found a clockspring and module locally, but if not, price for those, too.

Thanks,
John

14
For Sale / Re: Parting Out Five Escort ZX2's
« on: November 14, 2006, 09:27:25 AM »
Hi,
Trying to put one back on the road.

here's what I need, and I can pick up everything in person, if it would save you some trouble. I am near Pittsburgh, PA.


stock airbox w/MAF
wiring harness plug end from prnd1 safety switch on atx (not avail from FoMoCo)
radiator for atx
dash piece around guage cluster
stock radio w/ A/C, w/rear defroster, w/climate control knobs and cable to blend door
stock seatbelts or whole/partial charcoal interior including belts(could dissasemble for you, I am a bodyman of 11 years)
stock spoiler
any used tires with more than 2/32nds tread left on them
clockspring
SRS module
lids for washer fluid/coolant overflow (I think the towtruck driver took those  :| )

Colors don't matter to me. I'll take anything useful, and slightly damaged or "modded" stuff is fine, too as long as the price reflects the condition.  Not looking to put this thing in shows, just planning on driving it around in primer with 4 different colored bodypanels, and get it to pass PA inspection.

I am searching several other leads for some of this stuff, including ebay auctions, but if you could give me a general idea of what you'd want for everything.

Thanks,
John

15
For Sale / FS: Random stock pieces
« on: May 31, 2006, 10:41:35 PM »
what do you want for the stock airbox crap, shipped to 15021?

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