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Messages - KoiHoshi

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 91
1
Off-Topic / Re: Still around?
« on: October 05, 2012, 11:16:07 AM »
guess I should stick around more :)

2
Off-Topic / Re: Chris will be resuming zx2ms
« on: May 18, 2011, 02:35:29 AM »
haha yep! welcome back

3
Off-Topic / Chris will be resuming zx2ms
« on: April 13, 2011, 04:19:48 PM »
I just wanted to let everyone know that as of a few days ago, Chris is in charge zx2ms again.  Unfortunately with the new job I just don't have the time to devote that this place needs.

I will still be here to moderate now and then as time permits and post from time to time.  I wish you all the best.  It's been a LOT of fun!  Chris has a crazy amount of motivation and he's always treated this place right.  So it'll be cool to see how things go :)

4
Northwest/West/Pacific / Re: Is there anybody in my neck of the woods?
« on: January 03, 2011, 06:52:29 PM »
i'm west coast, central oregon!

5
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: No Heat at all
« on: December 12, 2010, 12:45:35 AM »
You've got air pockets in the system.  Assuming you mean you blow air but it's not hot.

Bleed the cooling system, turn your heater on full blast while you do it to flush air pockets out of the system.  If your stat is holding an air pocket in it then you can drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat (this will not affect your cooling performance and allow air pockets to get past it if they are airlocked past your stat) and re-bleed the system.  Make sure you do this and clean the stat off as you don't want metal chunks in your passageways.

Hope this helps.

6
ZX2 Discussion / Re: Kamikaze
« on: December 10, 2010, 01:11:57 PM »
Lol it's hard to find a really good setup that sounds good.  The borla sounds alright, but once you get into function over focus of cool factor, performance doesn't always "sound great" lol.

7
ZX2 Discussion / Re: Any tips for getting the pilot bearing out?
« on: December 09, 2010, 04:02:47 PM »
The hydraulic pressing of a pilot bearing works best if it went in smooth and will come out smooth.  It requires a lot of force to force it out.  I made a home made slidehammer that consisted of a heavy socket for an axle (like a huge 32mm socket) and a big concrete bolt.  I then threaded a few nuts on it to tighten it down onto the inner race.  I did this on my Porsche 944, worked like a charm.  Here's a pic.




8
Misc / Official ZX2MS Beginner's guide to Carbon Fiber
« on: September 21, 2010, 08:40:25 PM »
I have done this writeup for a few other sites but wanted to make sure it was here.  We have had so many people come along through the ages of our site and others who have come and gone.  Many have wanted to learn this interesting skill.

I present to you my official guide on how to do Carbon Fiber.  This guide is property of myself and ZX2ms, you may only repost it with permission and a link to where you are posting it.  This is simply my asking of a common courtesy as I am writing this and releasing this on ZX2ms.com free of charge.

I am working on a more in depth tutorial and guide on carbon fiber that I will be distributing at some point, but as of write now we will call this the zx2ms beginner's guide to CF.  I hope you enjoy!

Figured I'd post up a brief introduction to carbon fiber.  I've got a lot of emails about it since I made the dash and posted it up all over.  So I figured I'd make a brief "This is how you..." for those that wish to do it yourself.

It is hard to find ANY tutorials online without paying money.  I am a do it yourself type, trial and error... so this is the beginners guide to carbon fiber.

A few things to start off.

DISCLOSURE: Any carbon fiber work you assume to do is at your OWN RISK.  There are resin/chemicals involved, potential fibers that can post a health risk to you and your lungs.  Carbon fiber in it's standard form can still be dangerous to you and your health due to the fibers.  In pursuing this you must understand that you are doing so at your OWN RISK.  With that said I will list the precautions that I take before doing so.  If you are unsure or have any questions about pursuing this and your safety we highly recommend consulting with industry professionals and seeking their advice!

- ALWAYS WEAR A MASK.  PERIOD.  If you value your lungs, wear a mask.  Not a cheap mask.  Get a high grade mask, the kind you would wear if you were going to paint a car.  Some of the fibers that come up from carbon fiber when cutting it are TINY.  You do NOT want it in your body.

- ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES.  PERIOD. Mostly because this stuff hurts like a pain in the butt if you get it in your hand.

- IT IS EXPENSIVE.  A "decent" layered part is at least 4 to 5 layers.  One sheet of carbon fiber LOOKS like a lot but think of it like paper... if you put resin over paper it'll be easy to bend and snap.  You need MULTIPLE layers to make it worth a darn.  Thin parts you can get away with 3.   Anything that needs to stand up to force or stress, more... till you're happy with it.  1 yard of carbon fiber goes far but if you're making huge parts, no.

- BE QUICK! Once you mix resin you have a limited window to get things ready!

- KEEP IT SIMPLE - the more intricate the part is the more difficult it will be to make that part in carbon fiber.  Curves are one thing, but tiny tips and sharp curves can be hard to mold.  Be prepared for lots of prep work for complicated parts.

With that said.... this tutorial is for laying carbon over existing parts.  There are several ways to do it.  The most expensive but efficient way is to vacuum bag parts (this sucks the CF up to the part and keeps it air tight while it cures), the other is to make a mold out of another substance such as plastic or fiberglass, this is also expensive.  The other way is to use an existing part as the mold itself.  This can be quite effective but you can risk destroying a part DEPENDING on what it is made out of (like a dash) and can also have difficulty staying flat or holding shape so you must be very careful when using this method.

Step 1... choose a part.  In this case I have chosen the heel guards off of my 1999 Ducati 900SS.  Then figure out how thick you want the part to be and cut the pieces of carbon fiber to match it's shape.



Step 2... cover the part with some sort of wax.  This will keep the resin from STICKING to the part.  It sucks when it does, believe me.... turtle wax works the best, however, in this case I used meguiars 3 step was (used step 1 cleaner wax).



Step 3... Mix the resin - in this case we are using an industry standard resin.  The mixture is 4 parts resin to 1 part hardener (or 4 scoops white stuff into 1 scoop of yellow stuff in layments terms).  If you mixed it correctly you will likely see some bubbles in the resin.  Keep mixing and try and get as many of the bubbles out as possible.





Step 4... Determine how you want to lay the material down.  Some people get the carbon wet and then lay it down.  I prefer to lay mine over the part and pour the resin on it and pack it with my fingers (sort of like how you would pack a wheel bearing with grease, just mash it down and pat it nicely to get it through all the crevasses)







Step 5... Keep adding layers.  Use up that material, lay down more resin, you will notice the thicker it gets the easier it is to keep molding it!





Step 6... Trim off the edges while you still can.  Once this stuff hardens, if it is thick enough, about the only way to trim it down is with a dremel or cutting wheel.  The dust is so fine at that point that you NEED a mask.  I prefer to use a nice sharp pair of scissors to trim the edges.  This way you can have a little flexibility in trimming it up and you can end up with a good result, it also is easy to trim while it's still wet!



Step 7... With the edges trimmed where you want it, time to cure that puppy!  HEAT GUN TIME!  Keep in mind, you can SEE and SMELL it cure.  When the heat is applied on a heat gun (in this case, a simple $20 heat gun from wagner from your local home depot is PLENTY of heat) it will start to bubble.  BE CAREFUL, if you apply too much heat then it will bow in places and not stay flat, try and keep the heat even.  The way this stuff cures and takes off it will get HOT, BEWARE, THIS CAN BE A FIRE HAZARD.  IT WILL SOMETIMES SMOKE AND IT WILL GET HOT!  Keep this in mind on your gloves! Sometimes if the resin "takes off" on your gloves they will get HOT, be careful being burned by resin would not be fun!  But be CAREFUL! But again, keep it consistent, once it starts to take off you will lose the ability to mold the carbon fiber, so do not do this till you have it formed exactly how you want it!



Step 8... Wait for the curing to stop, then keep trimming!



Step 9 and 10 are simple..... sand sand sand with 600 grit sandpaper to get the surfaces FLAT.  Clean it off with water, wetsand, sand more, more sanding... then when you think you're done, sand more.  Step 10 is to lay down your clear coat!  You will still need to likely wetsand this as well, I would stick with 600 grit WETSANDING once you get to the clearcoat.

Here is a nearly finished part... this still needs more setsanding and some finishing and some more clear and a bit of touch up.






A FEW TIPS!!  Carbon fiber has a very interesting feature to it a lot of people forget.  It is flexible one way and not another.  The rule of laying down a piece that will be structurally SOUND is to lay them down in patterns diagonally.  Here is an example:

This is a piece I pulled with my hands sideways, note the middle has a very clear bunching to it, this is because it would not stretch, this is the "non-flexible" point.  If it was structurally pulled in this direction it would be VERY STRONG.




This is the same piece turned and pulled.  Note that it has now CHANGED SHAPE.  If it was pulled this way... it would stretch!



Note how far it stretches!



So the idea if it's going to be structurally strong... lay it down on opposing patterns.  The idea is that if you can do that, no matter which direction the part tries to flex, move, bend or pull it will stay strong as can be!

9
Megasquirt is here. :twisted:


10
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: I broke it
« on: September 14, 2010, 12:18:54 PM »
jason isn't aware of any shops in his area that do trannies.  might give rob at zxtuner a jingle and see if he does them or knows anyone that does.

http://zxtuner.com/

Make sure you tell him zx2ms sent you! :)

11
I like.  Yes.





Still need to trim off a bit more, cut out the switch holes and finally sand and clear... but it's finally taking shape.

12
Well guys I got some CF parts made and finally got some more stuff done on the 924.  The dash is officially gone, and the CF dash will be going in it's place here very very soon.  I made a pillar so I can get some gauges moved since the other side of the dash will be non-existent.  Should be fun times.  

The dash still needs to be trimmed, sanded and cleared and is straight rough out of the mold, but you get the idea.



And here is the pillar

13
Well guys I got some CF parts made and finally got some more shit done on the 924.  The dash is officially gone, and the CF dash will be going in it's place here very very soon.  I made a pillar so I can get some gauges moved since the other side of the dash will be non-existent.  Should be fun times.  

The dash still needs to be trimmed, sanded and cleared and is straight rough out of the mold, but you get the idea.



And here is the pillar

14
As of today there is no more carpet/material/lining/foam/trim in the car.  It's all gone now.  I have dremeled/sanded/grinded/wheeled away almost all the cancer on the inside at this point and am sealing it.

It got crappy as hell outside so i parked it for today.  But I took the rear quarters out and traced them so I can finish my lexan windows and took the pillars out so I can finally put to use the CF I bought.  Going to probably buy some flat media CF so I can use it for the dash and gauges and then strip out the rest of the dash.  


15
Here is today's post of the interior stripping.  I have not shared a lot of these photos since I wanted to post them when I was close to done since it's pointless to go "HEY LOOK! RUST AND GROUND DOWN METAL!"

Since I like before and after photos.









Yay, so much fun.


Chisels, screwdrivers, hammer and armstrong.







These last 3 are the most recent.





As you can see if you look close, driver side still needs a bit more.  And it's dirty as hell in there so it's easy to see all the dusty crud flying around thanks to me grinding in the car.  But you get the idea.

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