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Messages - groundsquirrel

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Off-Topic / Re: Sorry about the Downtime lately!
« on: April 13, 2013, 06:34:54 PM »
Heh. I can appreciate why. Pity, really.

2
Off-Topic / Re: Sorry about the Downtime lately!
« on: January 01, 2013, 05:12:49 PM »
No problem, boss. Just glad the site is still here.

3
Is the condition exactly the same as before you changed the axles? If so, then you have hurt your differential. If not, then I would revisit the axles to check for a defect or improperly seated axle.

4
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: Speedo issue
« on: June 16, 2012, 07:27:57 PM »
Well, I gave up trying to figure out if I could field repair my speedo. Once I looked inside the cluster and noted the faceplate mountings were broken I decided to just replace it with a used one. Working good so far. While my guy was at the yard he found an S/R, but somebody had already gotten the cluster and the good stuff from under the hood.......bummer.

5
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: 99 ZX2 mtx dead or what?
« on: June 10, 2012, 09:06:20 PM »
The only way to really know is to remove the timing belt cover and place the crank at top dead center. If you are unsure, just take out the number one spark plug and use a long dowel or screwdriver in the plug hole. When the dowel or screw driver is at it's highest point with number one cam lobes away from the cam followers take a look at the drivers end of the camshafts. See if the slots on the end are perfectly parallel. Even if the engine did go out of time, not to worry. The reason we love these little beasties is that they are free-wheeling engines, as in non-interference by design. The lower timing belt idler pulley is a weak point in this design and they often wear out causing belt misalignment and eventual failure. Check it out and let us know what's up. Also, I have seen failed fuel rail pressure sensors flood the engine and cause fuel washdown and loss of compression. Take the vacuum line off the sensor and see if gas comes out when you cycle the key. Another possibility, that happened to me, was that my valve cover leaked oil into the plug wells till they shorted out the spark, that along with me cranking the shit out of it caused a flood condition and compression loss due to wash down.

6
While the mechanical process of removal and installation of the Zetec cylinder head is not an overtly difficult task, there are several process requirements that are crucial to a successful repair.  The two most important items are the cylinder head bolt torque process (new head bolts, everytime) and the camshaft timing belt installation procedure (note, special tool requirement, if you don't have experience with timing this engine .... use the tools! Many of the chain parts stores are now offering rental on this timing tool set). The cam gears on the Zetec are unique in that they do not use key or dowel locators. Instead, when you look at the opposite end of the cams, you will note a wide notch across the end of the cams. One of the tools from the timing tool set is a machined flat bar that engages these slots to hold the cams. Do not use the aligning bar to hold the cams when loosening or tightening the cam gear bolts..... http://www.newcougar.org/forums/thread153188.html .....

7
Off-Topic / Re: Still around?
« on: May 14, 2012, 06:25:55 PM »
Me, me . . . . I'm still here!




So, what did I win?   ;D

8
If you are in the habit of riding with less than a quarter tank of gas that can happen as well. When the fuel level is too full or empty then the system monitors will not run. Also, just driving it around won't do it. There is a thing called a "drive cycle" and until all of the drive cycle conditions are met, the monitors will not run. Too run without a valid cat' you would need to use an O2 emulator for the downstream sensor (they are illegal now, so it would have to be hidden well) and hope the inspector doesn't whip out his non contact thermometer and start checking the inlet and outlet temps on the cat'. Besides, there is really no reason to gut out a catalytic convertor. They are not an obstruction unless they get crudded up from oil consumption, mixture errors or mechanical damage. There are "high flow" convertors for sale from several suppliers. Or.........move to Florida :)!

9
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: 4th Gear Grinding
« on: May 09, 2012, 08:18:09 PM »
Sounds like a worn blocker ring or possibly a worn shift bushing..

10
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: What am I missing?
« on: May 09, 2012, 08:16:53 PM »
Remove the upstream oxygen sensor to relieve the pressure from a suspect catalytic convertor. It saves breaking off exhaust flange studs unnecessarily. How did you verify the cams were in time?

11
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: midrange hesitation
« on: May 09, 2012, 08:12:08 PM »
What spark plugs are you using? Is there any carbon tracking on the plugs like from a dookie plug wire? Also, you might consider sending the injectors to FuelInjectorMan for service as well as replacing your fuel filter upon reinstallation. I can't tell you how many times a restricted injector inlet screen drove me crazy. Does it idle smooth? (Well, as smooth as a zx2 can idle anyway ;) lol. On rare occasion I have seen a bad coil. Sometimes the valve cover will leak into the plug wells until the oil level shorts out the spark. It happened to me.

12
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: midrange hesitation
« on: April 28, 2012, 04:18:21 AM »
UDP=Under Drive Pulley, I have the Eslinger. It was probably the single biggest improvement in low and midrange performance for a stock engine and really reduced the vibes and slow down from AC compressor engagement. Corn squeezin's is my vernacular for the ethanol in gasoline. Using super unleaded allows the system to use maximum ignition timing and less VCT (EGR control for our cars) by keeping the detonation away. I tried the knock sensor mod and it was very bleh, no noticeable improvement. We also get better fuel economy with super.

13
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: midrange hesitation
« on: April 26, 2012, 07:34:33 PM »
Sometimes attempting to clean the MAF can cause more problems than  it cures. If you do, use actual MAF cleaner or electronic parts cleaner NOT carb. cleaner. Allow the sensor to dry completely before running the vehicle. I also recommend against oil type air filters for MAF cars. There are dry type performance air filters out there. Personally I use a WIX brand OE replacement. They filter well and breath just fine for normally aspirated engines.

14
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: midrange hesitation
« on: April 22, 2012, 06:57:57 PM »
There is such a thing as "in range failure". Unless the failure meets the flag critieria, no trouble code and no check engine light will be set. Depending on how it is driven, you might be just bumping up against the fail threshold without crossing the line to a flag condition. One indicator of MAF trouble is to have somebody with a scanner look at the barometric value. Most scanners will display a Kpa (Kilo-pascal) value. It should be equal to the barometric pressure for your area/altitude. If it seems to be off by 5 or more Kpa then disconnect the battery negative cable for at least twenty minutes to dump keep alive memory and reset the fuel trims to zero. Then drive the car making sure that you do a few full throttle runs in the upper gears. The trick is to achieve better than 90% engine load for up to ten seconds at a time. After a couple of drive cycles have the baro reading checked again. If it is still off, then cleaning or replacement of the MAF may be in order.

15
Problems, Parts and Diagnosis. / Re: 3rd gear crunch. Driving me nuts!
« on: April 21, 2012, 07:50:05 PM »
Because the previous driver or drivers were complete douche/s and trashed the third gear blocker ring, and probably the synchro and shift fork as well, by living out their little Fast and Furious fantasies.....that's why. Sorry, had to call it like I see it. Your transmission can be repaired, but only by somebody familiar with manual transaxle diagnosis and repair. Depending on the level of damage, it sometimes ends up cheaper to shop for a good low mileage used transmission from a reputable recycler (junk yard). I am currently diving into a transaxle for one of the shop's project cars, but even I need the trans shop across town to do the specialized press work for the shaft assemblies.

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